I write these entries too often in the vague haze of half a bottle, thrilling at the brilliance of a particular wine. I’m only proving that to you now by writing about this superb muscadet which is everything a muscadet ought to be and more. I can reel off the classic mucadet notes – it’s flinty; it’s yeasty – but more than that, this has a really satisfyingly full centre of fruit. Melon de bourgogne is so often written off as “crisp”, but this (old vines) example has a lovely fullness that reminds me of chardonnay.
I know that among my last posts was a rapturous appraisal of chablis. It’s unfortunate that muscadet comes so soon afterwards, because the best examples have very many qualities in common. It will seem as if I fixate on a very particular kind of white wine as a standard of brilliance. Perhaps there’s something in that for me though. Like chablis, this is a wine I feel I can really drink. It’s not too high in alcohol, for one thing, and I could pour a glass of this alongside so many of the things I like best to eat: some poached fish and butter sauce, roast chicken, an omelette (which is how I drank it this evening).
This wine is also excellent value for money because people still underestimate this region.
Beautifully limpid; smells of wet flints, fresh yeast, white grapefrut, with a suggestion of something more substantial, a sort of bready, brioche quality that’s not at all rich or sickly. It’s a sweaty boulangere on a morning shift. It’s so everyday, and yet somehow so elegant too.
Chateau la Noe Muscadet Sevre et Maine Vieilles Vignes 2009 | 12% abv | £10 | Love this wine, 16